Selva Negra: Nicaragua’s Black Forest
After a short drive from Matagalpa along windy roads and climbing to an elevation above 3,000 feet we arrived at the Selva Negra Mountain Resort in the late afternoon. Almost immediately we felt that we had taken a step back into both another time and another country. Picture a little bit of Germany set down in the highlands of northern Nicaragua. Quaint Bavarian-style bungalows and chalets, each with a few rocking chairs in front, were scattered along the road or set near a pond that reflected the deep greens of the cloud forest that surrounded the little valley. Although the mists had burned away earlier in the day the weather was noticeably cooler and damper and fresher when compared to the lower elevations of the country. The European style architecture and geese wandering around did little to ground us in Nicaragua; if a German milkmaid had come around the corner with a pail of sloshing milk we wouldn’t have been too surprised.
So, how did this bit of transplanted Germany wind up here in Nicaragua? Wikipedia says that, “In the 1850s, when gold was discovered in California, many American and European passengers made their way to California crossing the Isthmus of Central America through Nicaragua”. Among those seeking their fortunes was a German couple, Ludwig Elster and Katharina Braun. Evidently the northern highlands of Nicaragua reminded them of the region they were from and, travel-weary, they chose to remain in the area they later called Selva Negra, the Black Forest, rather than continue to San Francisco. They planted the first coffee beans in the area and were joined later in their farming community by other Europeans and Americans.
The Ecolodge was built in 1976 by Eddy and Mausi Kuhl, descendants of the original settlers who are the current owners of the 400 acre property. Daily tours of the historic coffee farm, observing some of the methods currently practiced for living green, horseback riding, hiking and bird and wildlife watching are a few of the things that can be done while visiting. Of course there’s always just relaxing, rocking in a chair, reading or chatting with new friends.
Anita says, “I decided to go on a hike with a couple of friends to see the panoramic view from the mountain top. After talking to the woman behind the counter about our plans and being assured that we were in for a real treat we set off with a map (which we lost halfway through the hike) and spent about three hours climbing steep, seemingly vertical trails, slipping and sliding around the paths. When we finally arrived at the promised panoramic viewpoint the riotous overgrowth and foliage from the trees almost totally obscured the view. And then we had to go D.O.W.N…
Richard says, “I read a good book, napped and took pictures of the gardener dredging algae from the pond”.
Obviously, some choices in how to spend one’s leisure time are better than others at Selva Negra.
By Anita and Richard, May, 2014
Hello Anita and Dick, it was great to meet you with Erin in Puerto Viejo, happy and safe travels to you! Leahanne
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Good to meet you, too, Leahanne and so fun to take the tour at the Jaguar Sanctuary. Hope that you can find a way to jump out of the great American rat race soon and follow your artistic dreams!
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Fun following you guys on your travels. Here Marlene slipped in her kitchen, fell and busted herlips on teeth. No ER but sore. I was told my 15 year oud knees look like they are good for another 10. Best, Ed
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Great to hear you’re keeping up with our travels! Hope Marlene heals fast and glad your knees are good for a few more years because I know you have a lot more traveling planned. We left Nicaragua at the end of April for parts south (Costa Rica and Panama) which takes care of a few months but it’s time to start talking about our next meet up…? Put your thinking caps on!
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Looks like a beautiful place, I lived in Germany for 5 years and the pictures remind me of Germany. I would like to visit this place sometime.
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Selva Negra really was a terrific place to visit and so different from anything we expected. You will have to make a visit to your neighbor, Nicaragua, as I know you´d love the variety of places and things there are to do here.
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