Pillars of the Earth: La Sagrada Familia
Over twenty years ago we voraciously devoured the Ken Follett historical novel “Pillars of the Earth,” a huge volume about a 12th century stonemason who dreams of building a massive cathedral unlike anything seen before. Tom Builder begins his life’s work knowing that it will not be completed in his lifetime but trusting that it will be finished. And we couldn’t help but compare this fictional character to the real life Catalan architect, Antoni Gaudi, who collaborated with the Catholic Church to design and oversee the construction of La Sagrada Familia, the most iconic structure in Barcelona. Begun in 1882 and still under construction today, this UNESCO World Heritage Site was consecrated as a minor basilica by Pope Benedict XVI in 2010 and is Barcelona’s number one tourist site, welcoming over 3,000,000 visitors a year.
Outside, the cranes tower over the basilica’s spires, plastic sheeting covers parts of the exterior and everywhere, throngs of people stand: in long lines behind the gates, shorter lines awaiting admittance with their e-tickets, s-curved lines at the stands for audio headsets and lines awaiting entrance into the church itself.
Those not in lines gather alongside the walls with their heads tipped back and looking up, up, up, examining the carvings and sculptures, stories in stone, cameras clicking.
And inside … We join the throng of people surging into the central nave and extricate ourselves as quickly as possible to stand quietly for a few moments trying to absorb the vast space. Organ music swells in the background and reverberates around us, voices are muted and there is the sound of shuffling feet. We are awestruck.
Above us the giant, tree-like pillars reach from earth to heaven, branches touching and supporting the spectacular vaulted ceiling. Light filters in from enormous panels of stained glass through the branches and pillars of granite, basalt, porphyry and Montjuïc stone. The noise from the crowd fades and we are in nature’s hallowed forest.
Much has been written of La Sagrada Familia, Antoni Gaudí’s final work and all-consuming obsession. Gaudi, like the fictionalized stonemason of “Pillars of The Earth” was well aware that he would never live to see his life’s work completed and is said to have remarked, “My client is not in a hurry.” At the time of his death in 1926 the church was approximately twenty percent completed and construction was expected to last for a few more centuries in a time when all stone was carved by hand.
With advances in technology, machines to shape and tool the stone and computer-aided design, the hope is to finish the basilica in 2026, a century after Gaudi’s death. Private benefactors sponsored the initial construction and Gaudi contributed his own money as well. At present the money received from ticket sales as well as donations from Friends of La Sagrada Família fund the continuing work at the site.
Perhaps a highlight of our almost two-hour visit was the organ recital at noon of Ave Maria. We were totally moved as we stood in the sublime surroundings of the central nave. For people who profess no religious affiliations or interest we seem to find ourselves in churches and cathedrals rather often during the course of our travels. Churches are often the place where a city displays its best architecture and art and the structure becomes linked with both a city’s history and identity. This most certainly is true as La Sagrada Familia has become Barcelona’s signature emblem.
By Anita and Richard
I know exactly what you’re talking about! We loved Sagrada Familia. I will never forget it. One of the most beautiful buildings I’ve ever been into. It really feels sacred.
Alison
LikeLiked by 1 person
We’re hoping to visit again in the next few years to see the progress made in the construction of the church as well as to re-experience Gaudi’s vision. It’s a place that “touches” many people and a visit seems to be a universal experience that stays with you for years!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I just wrote about this book on my latest post.. A friend had mentioned it to me when l wrote about the Sagrada, and later about the Notre-Dame in Marseille. I loved the book, and can’t believe l never heard of it before..:-)
LikeLiked by 1 person
It makes you wonder if Ken Follett had visited this awesome church before he wrote the novel, doesn’t it? I love the idea of how fact and fiction can become intertwined to educate us as well as entertain!
LikeLiked by 1 person
I first visited La Sagrada Familia as a college student back in 1983, and again later, sometime in early 2000’s. In 1983 it was a lot less crowded, but also a lot less of the sculpture was there, or perhaps it just wasn’t visible under scaffoldings, etc. Even then, though, it was awe-inspiring, and seems to grow more so as the building progresses!
LikeLike
I imagine it’s fascinating to think back to what it was like when you first saw it and track it’s progress over the years. The crowds are huge now and, because this place is the number one tourist attraction, will only increase. However, a place like La Sagrada Familia deserves to be seen and appreciated by everyone!
LikeLike
It’s such an amazing place, isn’t it? We drove by and had a good look from the outside when we were in Barcelona, but alas, we just didn’t have time to go inside as we were on such a limited schedule. (The joys of travel writing!) Thjx for the great post, Anita.
LikeLike
The pleasure was all ours. If you have a chance to visit the city again I’d highly recommend an inside visit and allow a bit of time to take it all in. This place is what travel is all about!
LikeLike
I revisited La Sagrada Familia when I was in Barcelona in April. I was last there in 2005. Notable progress had been made in those 10 years, especially on the inside which I agree is riveting. I would have loved to have heard an organ concert there. I’d recommend that people wanting to visit inside, reserve tickets ahead of time on-line—several weeks ahead of time if they want to be able to go up into one of the towers.
LikeLike
We reserved online tickets with the audio headsets a few days ahead but neglected to make sure the climb up the towers was included and missed that! It gives us an excuse to return but I was so disappointed that we couldn’t see everything as well as the city views from the high perspective. Looking forward to next time!
LikeLike
Missed you last week! Anyway, we haven’t been to Barcelona. Your account here tells me why precisely La Sagrada Familia is such a city icon. Maybe we should go in 2026? No, that’s too long a wait!
LikeLike
It’s an amazing church and a definite “must see” when you find yourselves in Barcelona. We are already planning a return trip to Spain in a year or two so that we can continue our travels through this fascinating country and re-visit the basilica to check its progress. Next time I think a formal tour might be the way to go!
LikeLike
Having also loved the book “The Pillars of the Earth”, I found your comparison with La Sagrada Familia very interesting and appropriate. Thanks for a great posting!
LikeLike
We’re thinking we’re going to have to load the book onto our kindles and reread it with La Sagrada Familia in mind. Before I’d read the book I’d never really thought about the vision and devotion that went into making some of Europe’s architectural masterpieces. I think we appreciate each building more when we think of the people behind it
LikeLike
I have not been to Barcelona in 8 years, I can imagine how much has changed and how much has not changed. It is such a slow and magnificent process. I also read “Pillars” years ago, what a smart comparison!
LikeLike
Thanks Suzanne. For some reason, the book was one of the first comparisons we thought of since both churches represented the dreams and aspirations of the people who built them and were constructed over lifetimes rather than years. Kind of an amazing concept now in the age of immediate gratification, isn’t it?
LikeLike
And to think when we renovated the bungalow, we thought two years was unbelievably long. (am I comparing my house to Gaudi’s La Sagrada Familia? ) The interior shots seemed dream-like. What an experience!
LikeLike
We’ve also gone through remodeling projects that seemed to never end. That said, I kind of like the idea of a building that is never quite finished and always awaiting the next improvement or artistic flourish!
LikeLiked by 1 person
That is one of the most gorgeous buildings in the world and fascinates me too even I am also not interested in religion. The story behind it and the architecture make it special. The last time I was there I did a “skip the line” guided tour and the guide was excellent, I learned a lot more than the time I went through it on my own (big surprise there!)
LikeLike
We were really glad to go at our own pace for our first visit so that we could slow down and absorb both the atmosphere and all the details. Next time however, I like your suggestion of a guided tour when we return to see how the construction is progressing.
LikeLike
I so hope I get to see La Sagrada Familia with my own eyes some day. Your photos are beautiful.
LikeLike
Thanks Nathalie! La Sagrada Familia will still be there whenever you have the opportunity to visit and just that much closer to completion!
LikeLike
All I can say is – ‘Wow’!
LikeLike
There are a lot of superlatives that can be applied to La Sagrada Familia but “WoW” works very well!
LikeLike
We sat inside La Sagrada Familia for hours just taking it in. Still think it is the coolest building ever. That was several years ago and from your pictures it looks like much more is finished now. We must go back!
LikeLike
it’s a place that you have to be still to absorb the light and atmosphere and all of the thousands of details. We listened to the audio tour which gave the facts and history but it was distracting. And you’re right, it’s a place to meditate and take one’s time absorbing it.
LikeLike
Whoa…awestruck for sure! If he died in 1926 and only 20% was completed, how much is completed now? This is incredible. Your comparison to Tom Builder was perfect! I still treasure my time with the characters in “Pillars of the Earth.” I may have to reread the book again after seeing your photos of the basilica. 🙂
LikeLike
I don’t think we could begin to guess how far from complete the building is but there’s a lot of work left. What’s really amazing is that the unfinished building has already been awarded recognition by the UNESCO WHS. And, like you, we’re thinking about a reread of “Pillars of the Earth” ourselves, especially after seeing this neo-gothic wonder!
LikeLike
La Sagrada Familia is a beautiful building. Your photos brought make memories of my visit a couple of summers ago. The architecture is fascinating and the interior feels so peaceful. How lovely to hear an organ recital there.
LikeLike
We plan to visit the church again in a few years to see the building progress and you’re right, Gaudi’s design is fascinating. I didn’t quite know what to expect from the photos but it totally exceeded what I’d pictured and, unlike so many icons, lived up to its reputation.
LikeLike
It’s a fabulous building. I was interested to see that a completion date is now forecast – when I visited no-one thought the project would ever get to the end!
LikeLike
They’re hoping to have the church completed by the 100th anniversary of Gaudi’s death but it looks like there’s so much work left to be done. Luckily the money and donations keep pouring in to fund the building and it must be motivating to so many people to think that the project may really, one day, be finished.
LikeLike
Barcelona is a favorite destination of ours, and we never cease to marvel at La Sagrada Familia. Hearing a musical performance in this space must be something special indeed. What a treat!
LikeLike
A lot of travel seems to be about timing and serendipity and hearing the organ playing throughout the church was just a matter of luck. The music definitely added a layer of mystique and gravitas to the atmosphere of the church and made our visit there, like you said, very special.
LikeLike
I can’t believe I haven’t been to Barcelona! Your photos of La Sagrada Familia are truly stunning and I love the description of how “tree-like pillars reach from earth to heaven” It’s a shame Gaudi didn’t live to see it completed but I imagine he had a vision of it in his mind that inspired him and offered satisfaction.
LikeLike
Thanks, Michelle. When I saw the pillars I immediately thought of the book “Pillars of the Earth” and the conflict that the builder/architect must face when they know that their work won’t be completed in their lifetime. But what a legacy!
LikeLike
La Sagrada Familia was ana amazing place to visit, despite the crowds. Hearing Ave Maria would have been so emotional in such a magnificent setting.
LikeLike
To see so many people gathered in one place to visit a church was pretty unique in itself and, obviously, La Sagrada Familia’s reputation precedes it. We were prepared to be disappointed because of the hype but it really lives up to its reputation and then some!
LikeLike
We were fascinated too by La Sagrada Familia! To hear an organ recital there would have topped off a fabulous visit. Did you go to the roof….the views from there are amazing!
LikeLike
We read later that there will be a total of four organs in the basilica which will be magnificent with the structure’s amazing acoustics. I’m not sure if our timing was just perfect or if the organ plays daily around noon but the music lent another layer to our time in the church and totally enhanced our experience.
LikeLike
Overwhellmed by Gaudi Pillars. Ed Earl
LikeLike
We were too, Ed. Awesome is a perfect one-word summation to describe our visit to this basilica.
LikeLike